A polyester fabric is used because it will extend with the coverings. (Fiberglas material is not recommended.) Fabric is typically cut to extend three inches beyond the fixed location in all instructions. The finishing is applied to the roofing system surface area and the fabric is right away pressed into the wet surface.
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If your roofing system has stucco parapets, analyze them for cracks along the sides and top. These areas often allow water to go into the wall and can cause blisters and wrinkles in the roofing surface. Repair with Elastek 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, examine the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roofing membrane.
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Apply covering when the roofing system is dry and the sealant has set. You will be using a 9-inch durable frame, -inch paint roller for spreading out coating on roofing system or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Use a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Draw up your roof and make each pail fill that location.
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An inexpensive 3-inch or 4-inch brush ought to be utilized to reach areas not possible with a roller. Utilize a stiff paintbrush for using 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. Overcoat ought to always be applied in an extremely thick coat, to achieve a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finishing thickness of 10 mils.
Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the product for an optimum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or soak roof and spread. Offer scupper and ponding areas numerous extra coats for added protection. Enable each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather, one coat a day is the optimum; 2 may be possible in the summer.
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ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry coating. If two total overcoats are not used, always apply 2 thick coats to issue locations such as scuppers, drain areas, ponding locations, seams, and repaired locations. Prevent using Elastek Solar Magic or The Shield on ponding roofings. Clean skin and tools quickly with water.
These are the wires linking the roof venting fan. I clipped them simply above the blue splice joints. Roof vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the wire and getting rid of the vent, I tidied up any staying goop and got my very first great take a look at the roofing frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.
Some Recreational Vehicle roofing systems are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no idea what remained in my camper until this point. Not too pleased about the amount of rust on it, however ideally it is still structurally sound! I scraped off some rust and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.
Oops. Possibly I should have put a tarp down first. My final goal of the day was to get the refrigerator vent cover off. I noticed Recreational Vehicle sealant blobs at four points on the cover so assumed there should be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.
Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Removing old RV roof coating on top of fridge vent cap I likewise discovered that there was a coat of Recreational Vehicle roof finish over the vent cap. These finishes are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this finishing simply blobbed in on top of everything.
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Lifting off the cover of the fridge roofing vent. Once the cap is off it's more of the exact same. Removing more rubber and scraping off RV roof sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable due to the fact that this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.
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Some screws will be too rusted and require pliers to remove. Prying off the fridge roofing vent after all screws are gotten rid of. (and the tools used.) Almost every screw remained in sufficient condition to remove with a socket driver, but a couple were too rusty and required to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.
I peeled off the staying rubber roofing system from under the flange and then removed the old putty underneath. I'll clean it better if and when I choose to recycle it. Appears like it's in good shape so I most likely will. Scraping off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roofing vent.
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I scraped the framing inside the opening and found that the framing around the fridge vent is made from wood (unlike the metal frame around the roof vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I wouldn't drop any scrap into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.
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That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I likewise discovered this remarkable slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you have actually never seen a slime mold, take a look at some time lapses of them growing! They are freaking amazing! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I remove the rest of the roofing system components!.
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